Stinger Missiles or Spin Stabilised Rockets are one of my all time favorites
They're quick and easy to make and are a great combination of two effects in one, a Spinner and a Rocket.
To make these little guys Im going to need some tooling, I could make them by just ramming them with a dowel and drilling the nozzel and core by
hand but using tooling gives a reliable and consistant result. Im also going to need some 12mm ID x 40mm Tubes, Nozzel Mix, Fuel, Hot Melt Glue,
a 2mm Drill and a Rubber Mallet.
First off Im going to ram the Nozzel, with the tube on the tooling I add a couple of small scoops of Nozzel Mix and ram it using the 1st hollow
rammer with 5 or 6 sharp hits with the mallet
THIS ARTICLE SHOULD NOT BE USED AS A HOW TO GUIDE AS SOME SAFETY PROCEDURES AND PRECAUTIONS MAY HAVE BEEN OMITTED
Once I've rammed the Nozzel I gentley remove the tube from the tooling and mark where Im going to drill the vent hole a little later. The O ring on
the rammer is there to stop any Nozzel Mix or Fuel dust blowing out while ramming and also acts as a guide for marking up the vent hole.
Next the tube goes back on the tooling and I start ramming the fuel in small increments, I add about 2 or 3 small scoops of fuel and ram with 5 or 6
sharp blows with the mallet. The fuel Im using is standard 75-15-10 Blackpowder made with willow charcoal and milled for around 2 hours with
5% -60mesh Titanium and 5% -100mesh Magnalium added after milling. The Titanium powder gives a nice white spark effect and the Magnalium
gives a silver gold spark as well as improving the burnrate and overall performance of the fuel
I ram the fuel in small increments using the hollow rammer until the rammed fuel is above the top of the spindle, then I use the solid rammer until
the fuel is filled to the requierd level. As a minimum the fuel should be rammed to at least 1x the ID of the tube above the spindle
eg for a 12mm ID tube the fuel should be rammed to at least 12mm above the spindle
Once the fuel is rammed to around 6-8mm from the top of the tube it can be capped of with an increment of Nozzel Mix or Clay.
This ones going to get a Salute Header so a small piece of plastic or acetate film is pressed in as abarrier between the fuel and header composition.
Once the header composition has been added this is covered with a layer of tissue or paper and pressed down genltey buy hand
The header can be a coloured star composition for a coloufull ending or a flash powder for a report.
The header composition I'm using in this one is Flash Powder so I cant ram or press a Nozzel Mix or Clay bulkhead so I will close this one off with
some hot melt glue.
Now its been capped off its time to drill the vent hole, I marked the position for the vent hole after I ramed the nozzel I now drill the vent hole into
the fuel just above the clay nozzel. Using a 2mm drill the vent hole is drilled off center and on an angle as shown in the middle photo below. The
position and angle of this vent is what causes the device to "spin up" when lit. The fuse is then inserted into the vent hole.
After the fuse has been inserted it is bent up along the body and hot glued or taped to keep it in place. It's now ready to go
Most of the time these guys will take off straight from the gound without the need for a launch pin, especially if they are made with a hot fuel.
when launching directly from the ground they do tend to spray off on a slight angle every now and again
When I'm testing or videoing them I usually use a launch pin as this makes them a liitle more pedictable, The launch pin is just a pop rivet turned
upside down pushed into a hole in a block of wood. The device must be able to spin very freely on the pin and the pin must be long enough to
provide clearance between the tube and the wood block. If it cant spin easily or the tube doesn't have clearance above the base they may bind
onto the pin and not launch properly
12mm Stinger test video - Launched from a Pin
12mm Stinger test video - Launched from the Ground -
They dont all work!